In the northern reaches of Oxford, Mamma Mia is something of a culinary institution.

Summertown may be short on pubs (with only one real hostelry to soak up custom between Kidlington, Wolvercote and North Parade), but at least it has some decent places to eat – including, at Mamma Mia, some mighty fine pizza.

A popular place for an Italian meal and a glass of Montepulciano, this pretty spot on South Parade exudes a buzzy, continental charm. It is always busy, smiling waitresses darting between the kitchen and its terrace, which in this week’s sun feels more like a slice of Milan than suburban Oxford.

For those who prefer to take their pizza away – whether it be to munch in the garden, park, on the riverside or, in my case, while working a late night in the office, they’ll freshly cook your order and pack it in a sturdy box – taking just 15 minutes.

I went for the classic Mamma Mia (£10.95) – a fabulous, generously-loaded thin and crispy-based creation topped with spicy peperoni, beechwood-smoked ham, artichokes, mushrooms, olives, peppers, onion and capers, with a firm-yolked free range egg plonked in the middle.

Even after a 15-minute journey, it was hot, the base crisp on the edges, and soft, but certainly not soggy, in the centre. Craving flavour, I paid an extra quid for anchovy. I ought to have held the capers, which were too numerous for my liking, but otherwise it was faultless.

They also do gluten-free bases for £1.50 extra, meaning everyone can enjoy la dolce vita in Summertown.

Mamma Mia, South Parade, Oxford, OX2 7JL. 01865 514141. mammamiapizzeria.co.uk