Annette Cunningham revisits an Oxford institution

When I was in Oxford in the ‘80s, Browns was ‘it’. Quite literally.

It was the place you wanted to be and, more importantly, be seen.

Back then, it was all about the cocktail and barbecue ribs, innovations that for that decade seemed as important as Armstrong on the moon was in the ‘60s So 20 years on (or so) it was interesting to return last Sunday for breakfast: nice, polite, middle-aged and middled classed eggs and mushrooms.

And I have to say, I was delightfully surprised (there’s a middle class word). The truth is, I was overjoyed to return, especially as it’s better now than I remembered it.

But best of all, I didn’t think that the prices had doubled, or trebled over the intervening years.

As an indication perhaps of my advancing years, I opted for the vegeatrian breakfast (£7) which comprised of pan fried mushrooms, grilled tomato, two eggs (any style), wilted spinach, baked beans and toast).

I sat, together with my guest, in the restaurant’s fabulous front windows with the sun blazing through and a nice hum bouncing off the walls from the other diners. I took a deep breath. Wow, I was back! And it felt wonderful.

Everything and nothing had changed, if you know what I mean.

It was still every bit as stylish and chic as I remembered it, but with more warmth.

My choice of breakfast was superb, and my guest’s, who plumped for good old-fashioned scrambled egg on toast (£4), equally as good.

Indeed, both of us swore that as far as Sunday breakfasts are concerned, Brown’s will now comprise part of our weekly staple diet.

Not only only were there 16 different dishes to choose from, they also catered for every palette, from porridge (£3) to toast (yes, just toast) for £1.50, to a no-expense spared Chamapage breakfast (£17).

We loved it. The service was superb, the music perfect, and the ambience fantastic.

  • Browns, 5-11 Woodstock Road, Oxford. Tel. 01865 511 995