North Quest

Sandwiched between the River Cherwell and the Oxford Canal, and strung out along Banbury Road, the northern tip of Oxford is remarkable for its leafy streets, mix of lovely 19th and bland 20th century architecture, sky-high property prices, glut of estate agents, posh charity shops and lack of pubs – the Dew Drop Inn being the only real surviving boozer between Kidlington and North Parade (though Florio’s and the Wine Cafe are good for something posher).

But where drinkers miss out, diners have it lucky, with good pizza, Chinese and, err, pizza. And, surprisingly, one of the finest Indian restaurants in Oxford.

Saffron is the city’s northern-most outpost of South Asian cuisine, and certainly among its best.

To my shame as an unreconstructed curry addict, it had been many years since I stepped inside its spacious interior. So, when it came to booking a curry for myself and two friends from Kidlington – including this newspaper’s Man about Town, the discerning Jeremy Smith, I jumped at the chance to stay local.

When Saffron opened it acquired a quirky name for itself as a French and Indian restaurant. Not French fused with Indian, but two separate menus; probably the only eaterie of its type this side of La Manche.

I admit to having rather enjoyed the bonkers possibility of ordering lamb Madras with dauphinoise potatoes, but that probably says rather too much about me. Suffice to say, the steak frites and tarte tatin have long been dropped.

In its place is a classic Anglo-Bangladeshi menu with a few twists, though the restaurant, with its cool Colonial-looking exterior, chandeliers and room for privacy, still has the feel of an expensive French restaurant.

I asked owner Ali Hydar and his cheerful Nepalese sidekick Surje Gurung to choose for us – which is guaranteed to pay dividends from any house proud restaurateur.

So after Cobra beer and popadoms the starters came. And so generous were they, we initially feared Surje had skipped straight to the main courses.

The best were chicken tikka puree – sweet and sour pieces of chicken on mouth watering Indian bread; pani poori – puffed crispy parcels stuffed with onions and chickpeas and, our favourite, tandoori paneer – grilled cubes of mild cheesey loveliness.

After another Cobra – and a half bottle of prosecco for my more urbane companions – the table was filled with bowls of pilau rice, sweet Peshwari nans (stuffed with almonds and sultanas) and the kind of dishes which reminded me why Saffron has proved such a success over the years.

While ordering, Mr Ali asked how we liked our curries – taking in his stride answers ranging from ‘milder than mild’ to ‘thermonuclear’.

The best were a fiery lamb jalfrezi, laced with slices of green chilli; a ‘handy’ king prawn (sizzling knuckles of prawn in a rich yoghurty sauce, which, true to its name, came in very handy indeed) and a smooth chicken Kandahar (an Afghan dish, as it’s name suggests, medium hot and flavoured with tamarind; it’s a grown-up version of the entirely British invention of chicken tikka massala).

Creamy dishes of mottar baigon (chick peas and aubergines) and sag aloo (potatoes and spinach) provided the perfect balance to the heat.

These were washed down with strong black coffee and a shared plate of mango and pistachio kulfi – the distinctive inverted cones always a welcome sight after a fiery curry.

It also gave me a chance to chat to Mr Ali, who previously run Jamal’s in Jericho. Saffron is no Jamal’s, but what it lacks in high-jinks and rowdy rugger club antics, it more than makes up for in fine food, friendly service and cosy, yet elegant, surroundings.

For North Oxfordians: why travel to town, let alone Cowley Road, with food this good on your doorstep? For everyone else: head up the Banbury Road and give it a go.

Saffron is on Banbury Road,  Oxford
Call 01865 512211 or email www.saffronindianuk@aol.com