What sets an exceptional restaurant apart from the good is a fearless approach to culinary innovation, and that’s exactly what is going on in the kitchen at Witney-based pub restaurant, The Horseshoes.

The Horseshoes sits just down the road from its sister restaurant, The Hollybush, but the two establishments boast very different - yet equally as enticing - menus.

Me and my fellow diner had fantasised about the Crab English Muffin starter since viewing the menu online, so we ordered one each. It did not disappoint.

Oxford Mail: Crab Enlish Muffin. Picture: Samantha KingCrab Enlish Muffin. Picture: Samantha King

The fresh crab was served under a deep layer of very finely grated Old Winchester cheese on a bed of pickled cauliflower, atop a freshly-baked muffin. It was light as air - as a starter should be - and tasted like the sea. Despite the generous portion size, it still left us with enough room for the following course.

It was during the main course that my eyes were truly opened to the real talents of the chefs.

READ MORE: 'Eatery's steak left us close to tears'

I had selected the Fillet Steak served with Shoestring Fries and Blue Monday Sauce, with my fellow diner opting for Chicken Milanese with Garlic Butter, Green Beans and Old Winchester cheese.

The steak was tender, juicy and rich in flavour, but the real star of the show was the Blue Monday Sauce served alongside it in a small jug. The chefs had made it specially, to be served with the steak, using the spectacular Blue Monday cheese made locally by Alex James of Blur fame.

Oxford Mail: Steak served with Blue Monday SauceSteak served with Blue Monday Sauce

The sauce was tangy, it was rich and it poured out of the jug like a thick gravy. My only regret is that I didn’t ask for more.

Just when I thought the meal had peaked, it was time to select a dessert.

Being a chocaholic, I chose the Chocolate Fondant with a clotted cream ice cream and hazelnut brittle, which was a dish I will not forget in a hurry. My fellow diner, less of a chocaholic, chose the Cherry and Vanilla Queen of Puddings off the specials menu.

It’s difficult to do the Chocolate Fondant justice in words, but it tasted as I imagine liquid velvet would. It was very rich in flavour and soft in texture, with the portion size being just enough.

Unlike a chocolate cake or a brownie, it was not a dessert you could eat a lot of. It was a humble-sized offering that matched my appetite perfectly. My fellow diner fell silent throughout course three, so the Queen of Puddings was clearly a hit too.

Oxford Mail: The spectacular-looking Queen of Puddings. Picture: Lorenzo PaganoThe spectacular-looking Queen of Puddings. Picture: Lorenzo Pagano

Accompanying all three courses was a bottle of red wine I will be hunting down in future.

Our extremely knowledgeable server Tommy recommended us a bottle of Burlesque Old Vine Zinfandel, made in California. He said a friend of his worked at the vineyard over there, which gave it a real personal touch.

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It was the perfect accompaniment to our starters, mains and desserts, with Tommy talking us through how the flavours of the wine evolve as it is enjoyed alongside food. His passion for The Horseshoe’s food and the drink was clear and his company was welcome at the table – it really was five-star service.

The Horseshoes is a real jewel in Witney’s crown. The prices of main courses are on the higher side, but I would happily factor more regular trips into my monthly budget to satisfy my now frequent cravings for Crab English Muffins, Blue Monday Sauce and Chocolate Fondant.

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