Beer drinking may be taking a nosedive nationwide but one Oxfordshire brewery is bucking the trend — and watching its sales grow like the local hops from which many of its beers are produced.
Wychwood Brewery in Witney, home to brands including Brakspears and Hobgoblin, has seen year on year sales figures that would be the envy of managing directors at larger breweries. Wychwood beers (which include Hobgoblin) are up 18 per cent from 47,000 barrels to 63,000, and Brakspear is up 31 per cent from 19,500 to 25,000 barrels.
And all this in stark contrast to national figures from the Beer and Pub Association (BBPA) which in the second quarter of 2009 showed a decline of 4.8 per cent and 7.8 per cent in the first quarter Simon Barnes, sales manager at Wychwood, explained: “The company was bought up in 2008 by Marstons, a Wolverhampton plc, which now has six brands. But there is intense competition within the group which, it is true, is seeing a decline in sales overall.”
Now Wychwood employs 23 people in Witney and Mr Barnes heads a nine-strong sales team for the South Midlands, of whom four (including two recently recruited) are dedicated to the Wychwood and Brakspear brands.
He puts the Witney success story down to three factors: “Firstly, the access to Marston’s estate, providing economies of scale, is obviously good. Even though landlords of the group’s 500 pubs may choose which beers they want, many choose ours.
“Secondly, our obsession with quality and taste has paid off. People like our quirky seasonal ales and Hobgoblin is now the third biggest selling premium beer (above four per cent ABV) in the country. And Oxford Gold Organic is gaining ground too.
“And thirdly, we have a loyal local following. We supply the local untied free trade of pubs, clubs, hotels and sporting venues. We work closely with them and try and help — because some managers, say of clubs, are not really business people, and we can help them get their figures right.”
In any case Mr Barnes and his team must be doing something right in this area because sales to the free trade are now up from 9,678 barrels to 12,202 year on year.
Landlord Brynn Jones, owner of the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington, along with manager Kevin Goodman, back him up here.
Mr Jones said: “We use local produce really for three reasons. Firstly, it is practical — you are dealing with people just down the road, for example all our beef is sourced from the village, and one of our main suppliers of beer is Wychwood.
“Secondly, its great from a business poibnt of view — it’s an attraction to customers.
“Thirdly, it’s about integrity — supporting local businesses, the people around you, is crucial in these times.”
Mr Barnes, 38, who says he has never earned a penny throughout his working career except through beer, should be the right man to lead the sales onslaught.
He grew up in a pub, where his father was landlord. Even as a Business Studies undergraduate at Manchester University his only student jobs were in bars.
His first “real” job was at the Brakspear brewery in Henley — before that building turned into the boutique Hotel du Vin and Brakspear’s famous “double drop” brewing equipment moved lock stock and barrel to Witney in 2003.
He said: “I have even stayed the night in my old office at the hotel. But I saw the writing on the wall at Brakspear and moved to Marston’s before Brakspear was sold, and now here I am back at Wychwood selling Brakspear beer.”
Apart from the taste — which people certainly seem to enjoy — Wychwood has bucked the downward trend in sales through good marketing in the past, according to present marketing manager Chris Keating.
He said: “Rupert Thompson of Refresh, the company which owned the Witney brewery before Marston’s, was keen to promote beer as something to be drunk and appreciated in much the same way as wine; really appreciated in a critical sort of way. And I think that approach has really paid off.”
It has also motivated staff to live and breathe beer, as it were.
Head brewer Jeff Drew formerly worked in Henley, and second brewer John Tilson joined the firm when he was just 15 and knows no other trade.
Another feather in the Wychwood cap is the brewing of Duchy Beer. The brewery bar contains pictures of Prince Charles playing Aunt Sally there.
Mr Keating said: “We sell about 3,000 barrels a year and I think that it encapsulates everything we are trying to do here. It uses excellent hops called plumage anchor which have been genetically engineered for our beer.”
But he added: “I only hope that we shall be able to keep on brewing it here following reorganisation at the Duchy Originals brand.”
The Prince’s company has struggled during the recession, despite raising about £7m for charity, and last week signed an exclusive deal with Waitrose — which will inject capital into the business while moving Duchy Originals’ headquarters from Twickenham to Bracknell.
Mr Barnes said: “Were we to lose the Duchy contract I can categorically say there would be no loss of jobs since we are bursting at the seams as regards production anyway.”
Nevertheless, the loss of the Duchy would be sad since the Duchy of Cornwall has historic associations with Oxfordshire. The first Duke of Cornwall was Edward the Black Prince, son of Edward III and father of Richard II, who was born at Woodstock in 1330 and created Duke in 1337.
Wychwood Brewery in its present incarnation has a less long history, dating back only to 1983 when Paddy Glenny founded it in the Eagle Maltings — where the Brerwery is still located. But from 1841 until 1961 the Maltings was the brewery for Clinch’s beer.
In 1961 Clinch’s, together with its 71 pubs, was bought by Courage which closed the old brewery.
And where are those locally grown hops, you may be wondering?
True, most English hops are grown either in Worcestershire or Kent, but some, supplied to Wychwood, are grown in Kingston Bagpuize.
Comments: Our rules
We want our comments to be a lively and valuable part of our community - a place where readers can debate and engage with the most important local issues. The ability to comment on our stories is a privilege, not a right, however, and that privilege may be withdrawn if it is abused or misused.
Please report any comments that break our rules.
Read the rules here